Денот на Благодарноста

Денот на Благодарноста

When Thanksgiving rolled around this year, I was both really excited and really ready for it to be over with. It’s been a busy couple of weeks between  Peace Corps stuff, our final LPI (Language Proficiency Interview), regular school stuff, and an assortment of other social gatherings and trainings. Peace Corps told us a few weeks ago that each training community would be getting two turkeys (flown in from the US to a military base in Kosovo and driven back to Macedonia) and that we should hold a Thanksgiving dinner for our families here.

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Lake Ohrid

Lake Ohrid

Last Sunday, all of the Vatasha volunteers got to head out of town for the day on an adventure! Zoki, the President of Vatasha who works at the Municipality and drove us to our site visits and has arranged for us to go visit a winery tomorrow/get free wine for Thanksgiving and is an all around awesome person, pulled some strings and arranged a trip for all of us and a member from each of our host families to go to Ohrid for the day. Unfortunately our family was feeling under the weather and no one could go, but it was still fun to be out with everyone (and all of our collective moms and babas).

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На Гости

На Гости

I remember when I was 12 and my family moved to West Hills, we joked that we had moved into a witness protection program neighborhood. Even on the nicest days, on holidays, on weekends, everyone would stay in their houses/backyards, and aside from the occasional wave it just felt deserted. I lived in that house for 6 years before I moved away for college, and I don’t think I ever set foot in a neighbor’s house (and I can only remember a couple of the their names). In DC we had a small group of neighbors that we were friends with, but even though we lived there for two years and I saw the same people from our building on a daily basis, I never got to know most of them at all.

Fast forward to Macedonia, where на гости, or visits, are a normal part of everyday life. We’ve been given a crash course in the art of the на гости in Vatasha (come hungry, pace your eating, don’t fret if you completely lost track of the conversation) but our skills were really put to the test over the last three days during our first visit to Sveti Nikole, where we’ll live for the next two years*.

*For some people in our group, the scariest part of the site visit was meeting our new families, for others it was meeting their work counterpart, and for a few it was figuring out how exactly to get to their tiny village in the middle of nowhere. I felt parts of all of these things, but really what was in my head was “I’m supposed to live in the same place for two whole years!?! I haven’t lived in one place that long since college, and even then I at least moved rooms!”

Anyway, so back to the на гости. On Tuesday afternoon, the whole group of volunteers from Vatasha was invited to the local government office in Kavadartsi, the city up the road whose territory includes our village, to meet the Mayor. This was all arranged by Zoki, the President of Vatasha so to speak, who has also arranged to take all of us to Ohrid on Sunday and helped recruit the families who are currently hosting us. He’s a really awesome person. So the meeting started off the way these things usually do: the Mayor was running late on his trip back from Skopje, so we had coffee and tea and snacks while we waited and practiced our Macedonian with the staff. Before the meeting Kyle and I had taken a trip to the bus station to figure out how exactly to get to Sveti Nikole from here (the long story short is: you can’t, at least not easily) and were thinking about banding a bunch of us together to split a cab in that direction instead of taking the bus. We asked how much a cab might cost, and in truly hospitable Macedonian fashion… were offered a ride instead.

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In Sickness and In Health (in Macedonia)

I’m currently recovering from my second major cold in Macedonia. The first was right after we got to Vatasha and it wasn’t too terrible, but this one had me home from school and miserable. Being that I’m 28, it’s been a long time since I’ve had someone actively care for me when I’ve got the sniffles.

Enter Baba.

Let me set the record straight first – I love Baba. She cares a lot about me and Kyle, calls us her children, makes sure we are always well fed and looked after, and gives me a hug every morning before sending me off to school (in plenty of jackets). But when you’re not used to being cared for so intensely, it can seem overwhelming. I’ll start with a list of things that, according to Baba, will make you sick: Continue reading “In Sickness and In Health (in Macedonia)”